Q on removal of K.Khale handguard extesnion

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bayouray	Q on removal of K.Khale handguard extesnion	Lead	[-]
Posts: 216 (06/05/09 2:16 PM) Active Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Tags : None A while back I started a tweed project and turned the hand guard extension from my K.Khale receiver. I noticed that my M38 "new - surplus" Swede barrel leaves a gap between the barrel shoulder and the turned face of the receiver once the barrel bottoms out on the inner torque surface. I would think my next step is to turn that difference off of the barrel but wanted your thoughts on this. Is it possible I turned off too much? All of the internal threads are still there..... I know there are differences in opinon on which torque surface to use, inner - outer - both - crush fit - no crush fit..... What would you all recommend? Bye the way, I do plan to send it off to Blanchard for hardening once I have all surfaces lapped. Ray
Thor96		#1	[-]
Posts: 7306 (06/05/09 4:28 PM) MODERATOR Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Been there, done that. I built up a Twede 4-5 years ago, and since I had left it in the Turk stock, I didn't bother with the handguard retainer lip. Later I put the action in a Monte Carlo and YEP, now that gap sticks out like a sore thumb. There is another thread running, "Tweed on a 1903 Turk reciever", which deals with this very same issue. I answered in shadetree terms, and Don Markey clarified more adequately. Key on the 98 is that the barrel tenon must torque on the inner seat, whereas the Swede seats with the shoulder of the barrel torqued against the receiver face. Here's the way Don said it: I fit my 98 barrels to the inner torque ring. After truing both the inner ring and the receiver face, I cut the barrel tenon .002 longer. This brings it flush when tighening the barrel but doesn't put and pressure on the barrel. Don Now if you want to know how I solved my issue, I pulled the Swede barrel, sold it to a certain forum member, and had Chemson install a 6mm barrel for me. When all else fails, BLAME BUSH!
dirty jim		#2	[-]
Posts: 1516 (06/06/09 9:56 AM) MODERATOR Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	how much of a gap is it? if it was very small you may be able to get by with filling it with black epoxy & living with it. the real fix would be as don said, have the tenon cut .002 longer than the distance from the face of the receiver to the bolt face. any machine shop can do this & has the tools required to get the exact measurment that is needed, but a lot of them wont touch gun work. whole job from start to finish should take about a half hour. proud member of the Hillbilly Gunsmithing Guild
SAC22PPC		#3	[-]
Posts: 2134 (06/06/09 3:54 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	but the headspace would change... to do it right you would need to have the barrel matched to the reciever and then finish ream if needed. or you can do like jim said fill it in and live with it. SAC22PPC
donmarkey		#4	[-]
Posts: 343 (06/06/09 4:18 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Exactly, and since swede have such a long throat. I think you will be farther ahead recutting the tenon and then re-reaming. Taht way you don't have to seat your bullets way out there. Don
Thor96		#5	[-]
Posts: 7312 (06/06/09 5:08 PM) MODERATOR Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	but the headspace would change... to do it right you would need to have the barrel matched to the receiver and then finish ream if needed. He's going to have to do that anyway if he laps in and rehardens the lugs. swede have such a long throat. I think you will be farther ahead recutting the tenon and then re-reaming. That way you don't have to seat your bullets way out there So then domestic reamers don't set the throat as deep as original? But then I suspect some deep throats on used barrels may be washout anyway. That would be good to correct. When all else fails, BLAME BUSH!
bayouray		#6	[-]
Posts: 217 (06/07/09 10:08 PM) Active Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thanks for all replies. A little more info...I do have access to a lathe and I also own a finish reamer. The gap is .045" with the barrel bottomed out on the inner torque surface. The bolt still closes on a no-go gauge without making any contact at all. I thought I could turn off some of the barrel to reduce the gap or even eliminate the gap. I fully expect to have to use my reamer to get my headspace correct. I plan to do a little more measuring once I borrow some depth gauges from a friend. I will keep all of you comments in mind as I do this. Thanks all again! Ray
SAC22PPC		#7	[-]
Posts: 2135 (06/07/09 11:10 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	sounds like your all set then, go for it! SAC22PPC
bayouray		#8	[-]
Posts: 218 (06/08/09 8:32 AM) Active Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thor, thanks for pointing out that other thread....I missed that somehow as I do read the sporterizing threads more than others. I will try to take a few pictures of what I am doing as well. I have a 1942 Leblond 15" lathe that I picked up on auction a couple years ago. Since then I have been too busy with my real job to find time to do anything with it more than fitting some backplates onto a three and a four jaw chuck (the lathe had no chucks and the threaded spindle on that old machine has an unusual size - 2 1/8x5tpi so finding chucks was challenging). Now that I have chucks I am ready to complete my twede and another build (7mm08 on CZ24) that have been sitting around in boxes for over two years. ......now if only I can find some time!!! Ray Last Edited By: bayouray 06/08/09 7:15 PM. Edited 1 times.
dirty jim		#9	[-]
Posts: 1518 (06/08/09 5:26 PM) MODERATOR Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	hey, i used to run a 15" leblond about 15 years ago. it was a good machine. we also had another leblond that i think had about a 36" chuck. the best one i ever used was a 15" sharp. proud member of the Hillbilly Gunsmithing Guild
HerrMesser		#10	[-]
Posts: 407 (06/10/09 11:02 AM) Active Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I used to operate a LeBlond in the maintenance shop where I used to work. There also was a German Meuser lathe of about 20". Rad NRA Benefactor Member AMA Life Member
dirty jim		#11	[-]
Posts: 1520 (06/10/09 5:24 PM) MODERATOR Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	we also had a german lathe, i think it was a vdf with a 18" or 20" chuck. that thing took about a half a secont to get up to speed. it was kind of scary at first seeing that big chuck go from a rest to a blur almost instantly. proud member of the Hillbilly Gunsmithing Guild

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